Hokkaido Tohoku Autumn Itinerary for 3 Weeks in November
A good Hokkaido Tohoku autumn itinerary in November runs north to south: Sapporo, Otaru, Toya, Hakodate, then Hirosaki to Sendai, ending in Kanazawa. Hokkaido is about food and onsen, and Tohoku and Kanazawa hold the leaves.
- Go north to south: Hokkaido lowland color is finished by early November, while Tohoku lowlands peak early to mid November and Kanazawa mid to late November.
- The sample plan uses 10 bases for 20 days; drop Otaru, Toya and Morioka to get a calmer 7-base version with 2 to 3 nights per hub.
- Allow about 1.5 to 2 hours door to door from Hakodate to Shin-Aomori by train, so Hakodate is the natural stepping stone into Tohoku.
- Book in-room open-air bath ryokan 2 to 3 months ahead, and confirm tattoo policy in writing, since cover stickers are often refused.
- Rely on trains and buses in November; if you do drive, confirm in writing that your rental has winter tires, and still expect snow and road closures at Hakkoda, Zao and Nyuto.
What does November look like in Hokkaido and Tohoku?
The route works because autumn color moves south and downhill through November. On 1 to 20 November you are always arriving just after the peak in the north and just before it in the south, so the plan is to chase color in the second and third weeks and treat Hokkaido as a food and onsen leg.
Hokkaido in early November means bare trees, a first dusting of snow on higher ground, and cozy ramen weather. Do not plan around leaves there beyond a few late ginkgo and maple streets in Sapporo.
| Area | Foliage in 1-20 Nov | Rating | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Daisetsuzan peaks | Peaked in September | Skip | Snow season approaching |
| Sapporo, Otaru, Toya | Ginkgo and maple late Oct to early Nov | Fair | Hokkaido University ginkgo avenue and Odori are the best bets |
| Hakodate | Mostly past peak | Weak | Go for food and the night view |
| Hirosaki, Towada, Oirase | Mountains mid Oct to early Nov, lowlands early Nov | Good to fading | Hirosaki Park may still hold color early in the window |
| Kakunodate, Tazawako, Morioka | Early to mid Nov in lowlands | Good | Quiet and well timed |
| Naruko Gorge | Peaks late Oct | Weak | Likely finished |
| Sendai, Matsushima, Yamagata, Ginzan | Early to mid Nov | Good | Yamadera and Ginzan are strong |
| Kanazawa | Mid to late Nov | Best late | Kenrokuen yukitsuri rope supports usually go up in early to mid Nov |
How do I order the route and get from Hokkaido to Tohoku?
Fly into New Chitose, take the airport rapid to Sapporo (about 40 minutes), then work south: Sapporo to Otaru (about 35 to 40 minutes by rapid), Sapporo to Lake Toya (about 2 to 2.25 hours by limited express to Toya), Toya to Hakodate (about 2 hours).
From Hakodate, the Hakodate Liner reaches Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto in about 20 minutes. The Hokkaido Shinkansen then takes roughly an hour to Shin-Aomori, so the whole move is about 1.5 to 2 hours.
This is the answer to the train versus ferry question. The Tsugaru Strait ferry from Hakodate to Aomori exists but is slower, runs fewer sailings, and saves little money, so the train wins for a November trip.
South of Aomori the order is Hirosaki (about 40 minutes by local from Aomori), Morioka (about 2 hours from Hirosaki via Shin-Aomori), Kakunodate (about 45 minutes by Komachi), Sendai (about 2 hours), Yamagata (about 1 hour 10 minutes by Senzan line rapid or highway bus). Yamagata to Kanazawa has no direct link; going via Tokyo takes roughly 5.5 to 6 hours, so treat it as a full travel day.
Sample Hokkaido Tohoku autumn itinerary: 20 days with nights per base
This skeleton uses 10 bases and leaves two slack days inside the longer stays. Shift Sendai or Kanazawa earlier if a rail pass window forces it.
If 10 bases feels rushed, drop Otaru, Lake Toya and Morioka to get a 7-base plan, and drop Yamagata/Ginzan as well for 6. Add the freed nights to Hakodate, Hirosaki and Kanazawa.
| Days | Base | Nights | Main move or day trip |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1-3 | Sapporo | 3 | Nijo Market, Odori, Jozankei day trip |
| 4 | Otaru | 1 | Sushi street, canal at dusk |
| 5 | Lake Toya | 1 | Ryokan with in-room bath, onsen town |
| 6-7 | Hakodate | 2 | Morning market, Mt Hakodate, shio ramen |
| 8-10 | Hirosaki | 3 | Park, castle, day trips to Aomori, Oirase, Hakkoda |
| 11-12 | Morioka | 2 | Noodle crawl, Hiraizumi by train |
| 13-14 | Kakunodate | 2 | Samurai street, Tazawako, Nyuto Onsen |
| 15-16 | Sendai | 2 | Matsushima, gyutan |
| 17 | Yamagata/Ginzan | 1 | Ginzan Onsen, Yamadera |
| 18-20 | Kanazawa | 3 | Kenrokuen, Omicho, Eiheiji or Kaga |
What should I eat in each town?
Food is the best organizing principle for this trip, and November is strong for seafood in the north and crab in Kanazawa. Plan one signature meal per base and let the rest follow.
Sapporo: miso ramen, soup curry, jingisukan (grilled lamb), and kaisendon at Nijo Market or the Curb Market. Otaru: sushi street. Hakodate: squid and shio ramen at the morning market. Aomori and Hirosaki: scallops and apple pie. Morioka: wanko soba, reimen and jajamen. Akita and Kakunodate: kiritanpo and hinai-jidori chicken. Sendai: gyutan. Yamagata: imoni (taro stew) and soba. Kanazawa: seafood at Omicho Market, plus snow crab (kanimaru) from early November, when the season opens.
Which famous stops are weaker in November, and what are the closure risks?
Priorities are Hirosaki Park and Castle, Kakunodate, Ginzan Onsen and Yamadera. Oirase Stream and Lake Towada are worth it only if you confirm that buses, boats and roads are still running, since the season can end by early to mid November. Hakkoda ropeway foliage peaks in October, and early snow can interrupt service. Naruko Gorge peaks in late October, so swap it for Yamadera or Hiraizumi.
Lake Toya cruises may run shorter hours, some ropeways close for maintenance, and some mountain roads shut. Early snow is possible at Hakkoda, Zao and Nyuto, and in Hokkaido generally.
Pack layers, waterproof shoes, a light down jacket, gloves and a compact umbrella. Keep one buffer day per region as a rain plan.
| Stop | November risk | Swap or fix |
|---|---|---|
| Oirase and Towada | Boats and road may end season | Hirosaki or Kakunodate for color |
| Hakkoda ropeway | Early snow, reduced operation | Hirosaki Park |
| Naruko Gorge | Past peak | Yamadera |
| Kurobe Gorge, Tateyama Kurobe | Closed by late Nov or for the season | Takayama or Eiheiji |
| Shirakawa-go, Gokayama | Foliage done, possibly snowy; check Gokayama bus changes | Kaga or Yamanaka Onsen |
Should I rent a car, and how many bases should I use?
This plan uses 10 bases for 20 days, which is brisk. A calmer version uses 7 bases (drop Otaru, Toya and Morioka) with 2 to 3 nights in each hub. One-night stays only make sense where the lodging is the attraction, such as a Toya ryokan or Ginzan Onsen, and too many of them is the most common pacing error.
Send suitcases ahead with takkyubin (luggage forwarding) between bases and carry a small bag. Trains and buses are enough for almost everything here, including day trips from Hirosaki, Morioka and Kakunodate.
A rental car helps for Oirase, Nyuto and rural Hokkaido, but November brings a real risk of snow and ice. Rental companies in the north usually switch to winter (studless) tires around November, but the changeover date varies by company and branch, so confirm in writing when you book. Winter tires do not prevent road closures, and mountain passes can shut with little notice.
If you have no snow driving experience, use buses and taxis for the high-elevation legs. Check last trains and buses for small towns before you book, since many end early and some mountain routes stop for the season.
For passes, compare point-to-point fares against the JR East-South Hokkaido Rail Pass, which covers the Hokkaido Shinkansen to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto within a fixed window. It only pays off if you ride several long legs inside that window, such as Shin-Aomori, Morioka and Sendai. A Tohoku area pass can work the same way; confirm availability and validity with JR East. The Hokuriku Arch Pass matters only if you continue to Kyoto or Osaka.
From Kanazawa, Eiheiji and Fukui, Kaga and Yamanaka Onsen, or Takayama are the safe day trips. The Noto Peninsula is only partly recovered after the 2024 earthquake, so check its current status before planning. Confirm prices, timetables and safety rules with official operator sources before booking.
How do tattoos work at onsen in Hokkaido and Tohoku?
Policies are set by each bath, so ask each one directly and keep the reply in writing (an email or booking-site message). Cover stickers are often not accepted, so do not rely on them.
The most reliable option is a kashikiri (private, reservable) bath or a ryokan room with its own open-air bath. Book those 2 to 3 months ahead for November, since they sell out first.
Large tourist onsen such as Noboribetsu can be strict in some baths, so Lake Toya or Jozankei are reasonable swaps if you want more choice of private-bath lodging. Smaller rural onsen are sometimes more flexible but inconsistent, so always confirm. Ginzan Onsen and Nyuto Onsen (Tsurunoyu) are well known, but do not assume they accept tattoos; ask first.
- Filter booking sites for rooms with a private or open-air bath.
- Email the inn with a plain statement about your tattoos and ask whether public baths are allowed.
- Ask about reservable kashikiri baths and the booking window.
- Save the written answer and show it on arrival.
Common questions
Is November too late for fall colors in Hokkaido?
For most of Hokkaido, yes. Lowland color is mostly finished by early November, and the Daisetsuzan peaks peak in September. Sapporo ginkgo and maple around late October to early November are the exception.
What are the best places for fall colors in Tohoku in November?
Hirosaki Park, Kakunodate, Yamadera and Ginzan Onsen are the strongest bets for early to mid November. Mountain areas peak earlier, from mid October to early November.
Can I do Hokkaido and Tohoku without a rental car?
Yes. The Hokkaido Shinkansen, Tohoku Shinkansen and local lines link every base in this plan, and buses cover Oirase, Nyuto and Ginzan. Use taxis for the last leg to remote onsen.
How far ahead should I book ryokan for November?
Book 2 to 3 months ahead for rooms with an in-room open-air bath, since those go first. Standard rooms in hub cities are easier, but weekends in Kanazawa and Ginzan fill early.
Why go north to south instead of south to north?
Color moves south as the month goes on, so heading south keeps you just ahead of the peak. It also puts Kanazawa, where color peaks mid to late November, and snow crab season at the end.